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Looking to buy an old acoustic


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So for some reason I've developed a desire to purchase a really old acoustic guitar. I've never owned a vintage guitar (unless you count my 94 Strat) so I'm looking for something in the 60's 70's range. The only problem is I don't want anything expensive because I'm hard on guitars and also I have a house full of kids.. I would cry like a baby if they ever broke a sweet vintage guitar.. They've already cracked one of my guitars and dinged another one so I'm looking for something on the cheap side..

 

I've seen a couple old Epiphones and Yamaha's that look pretty cool. I've seen a lot of 60's and 70's model Epiphone FT-120's floating around out there.

 

Has anyone ever played a FT-120 or similar model? Should I just get a more expensive model and lock it away in a safe when I'm not playing it to keep it away from the kids? Although I've been playing for over 15 years and have owned many guitars, I'm by no means a guitar aficionado.

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Guest Speed Racer

I've got a '67 Epiphone Cortez and I love it. Some old guitars are "vintage," which drives the price and value way up, and some are just old. You should have no trouble getting a solid old guitar you can enjoy the way you want to without worrying too much about it. Mine only gets pissy when I'm not humidifying it appropriately.

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I've got a '67 Epiphone Cortez and I love it. Some old guitars are "vintage," which drives the price and value way up, and some are just old. You should have no trouble getting a solid old guitar you can enjoy the way you want to without worrying too much about it. Mine only gets pissy when I'm not humidifying it appropriately.

 

That Cortez sounds very cool.. I'll keep my eyes open for that model. Thanks Nap. :)

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Guest Speed Racer

It's a smaller body. If you're looking for a FT-120 (which is apparently also the model number for a bitchin' microscope - thanks Google!) you might not be interested in one. But I like mine.

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Should I just get a more expensive model and lock it away in a safe when I'm not playing it to keep it away from the kids?

 

This would be my recommendation. I am not sure if you were implying a new or vintage, but I recommend a new one. You get what you pay for (to a point. Law of diminishing returns kicks in at about 5k IMHO - anything more and you just pay for bling. Not sure your budget). The 'vintage' market is a bit tough. I feel you end up paying more for an inferior guitar.

 

If, however, you are set on a vintage, here are my thoughts. I would avoid guitars from the 1970s. Gibson and Martin were worried about repairs and beefed up bracing and construction - killing tone in the process. Gibson (and maybe Martin, cannot recall) went double X-braces with very poor tonal results. For 1970s, a Guild might be the best choice. I have not personally played one, but I have heard good things.

 

1960s are better. Watch out for the infamous adjustable bridges on Gibsons at this time. Also, a bit of a tone killer. I have a 1970 Gibson Dove which has one. The guitar sure is Purty, but weighs a tone and mediocre tone (at best).

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I have heard great things about 1960s Gibson LGs. People swear by them and I think you can still get at a decent price. YMMV of course.

 

The 1960s are good because they were still using Brazilian rosewood - the holy grail of tonewoods. If you can track down a Braz RW from the 60s, you can retire from GAS. There is an obscure Gibson that used Braz, I cannot think of name of top of head...

 

Anyway, my two cents. From someone who has thought way too much about acoustic guitars...

 

Good luck and happy hunting (half the fun, no?)

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Thank you for the wealth of information anthonyc007. I'm finding some decent prices on those Gibson LG's (although it's interesting that they are ranging from $700 to $2,500)

 

I agree about anything past 5,000 is just bling (I'd actually go much lower than that). I paid 1,000 for an American made Fender Strat in 1994 and that guitar has taken care of me for 17 years, and seems to be getting better and better with age. I see a lot of these 3,000 Martin's etc. and I just think... really?

 

Thanks again. I'll report back when I have made a purchase. :)

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I used to want a vintage guitar but never really got around to buying one. These days I really like to just buy everything new as the quality of guitars being made at Fender, Gibson, Taylor, etc... are really high right now. I like that when I pick up my 1988 strat (I think I payed $600), every dent and scratch is something I put on it. I will be playing a gig with that guitar in a few weeks and it sounds and plays better than ever. It's becoming vintage before my eyes which is kind of cool.

 

There is something to be said about the feel and sound of a vintage guitar. I guess that's why the relic guitars are so popular these days. Like Anthony said, you have to do your research. I always worry about what types of repairs have been done on them, how they have been treated, etc... It amazes me that anyone could buy a vintage guitar on Ebay without even playing it.

 

Good luck, I would love to know what you end up with.

 

 

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Guest Speed Racer

I see a lot of these 3,000 Martin's etc. and I just think... really?

 

What do you think when you see this Martin? :lol

 

The reason for the range in LGs probably has to do with either repaired cracks or tone that just didn't age well. When I bought my Cortez there were two and an LG in the store (similar body shape). The LG and the Cortez I bought sounded about the same but the Cortez was cheaper; the other Cortez sounded much, much flatter. It just didn't resonate at all.

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What do you think when you see this Martin? :lol

 

 

Wow good find that's a sweet guitar and it's definitely in my price range I'll have to pick one up I especially like the wuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut?????????? :lol

 

And I hear ya Moss, that 88 strat of yours sounds sweet. My 94 Strat is my baby.. I've also been told it's pretty unique since the Fender logo on the headstock is written in an unusual font. I'll see if I can grab a photo of it sometime.

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Guest Speed Racer

They posted one in the $128k range once. They have a Les Paul up there that's $90k and a mint 50s tele that's $32k.

 

The shop has fun "stop" signs on those guitars. A familiar red octagon with a sign that says something to the effect of, "IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO LEAVE THE STORE WITH TWO FUNCTIONING HANDS, [stop sign] AND ASK FOR ASSISTANCE. NO REALLY."

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So I now have my eye on a Epiphone 1964 Texan Re-issue (learned about it from Justin Townes Earle, he plays one live quite often). Yeah it's nothing like an original Texan and it's not vintage but supposedly it's a pretty sweet guitar...

 

Also found a 1988 Epiphone PR-350S (I have a thing for Epi's)... A local guy is practically giving it away... So now I'm torn between the two.. Spend more on a new Texan re-issue, or buy the (vintage?) 88 PR-350S? .... hmmm....

 

Based on recommendations in this thread so far (from Moss and Anthony) it's probably best to go with the new guitar...

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So I went with the 1988 Epi PR-350S. It's nothing extravagant, but it sounds great and it's in excellent condition (hardly a scratch on it). The guy said it's been sitting in it's case for 15 years. So I got my old guitar... Thanks everyone for the replies. :thumbup

 

epi.jpg

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Congrats. I hope you have may fine hours with her.

 

BTW, (I had this friend who always asked this): what was the first song you played on her?

 

Thanks!

 

First song I played on her; I was testing to make sure there were no frets buzzing or anything down past the 7th fret (a problem with my other acoustic) so I capo'd the 7th and played "They Killed John Henry" by Justin Townes Earle.

 

I'm amazed at how loud this guitar is. The projection and sustain is incredible. I'm not sure if it's the model or maybe the older wood has something to do with it? Either way I have to sing pretty loud to be heard over it, not a bad thing. :)

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I have a few 20s and 30s parlors and a few gibson arch tops from the 30s to 60s.... always can grab up old harmonies. Just restored an old yamaha,man oh man...martin killer. Alot of my older guitars need a bit to alot of work..i just dont have the time to repair them unless they are going to a good home.

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I have a few 20s and 30s parlors and a few gibson arch tops from the 30s to 60s.... always can grab up old harmonies. Just restored an old yamaha,man oh man...martin killer. Alot of my older guitars need a bit to alot of work..i just dont have the time to repair them unless they are going to a good home.

 

Wow, 20's and 30's.. Now that's old..

 

I've had enough time to really get to know my new Epi over the last week and I think the action is a little high... I've read that this model is known for having high action which doesn't bother me much, but I noticed the neck is a little bowed. Do you think I could benefit from adjusting the truss rod to correct the bow, or should I just leave the old lady alone?

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  • 2 months later...

Wow, 20's and 30's.. Now that's old..

 

I've had enough time to really get to know my new Epi over the last week and I think the action is a little high... I've read that this model is known for having high action which doesn't bother me much, but I noticed the neck is a little bowed. Do you think I could benefit from adjusting the truss rod to correct the bow, or should I just leave the old lady alone?

 

Truss rods cannot correct significant neck bow, and trying to do so can snap the truss rod or otherwise damage the neck. If you're seeing neck bow, take it to the best luthier you can find for analysis and estimate.

 

And if you're looking for a "vintage guitar" for rational money, look at Japanese guitars from the mid-1970s to the mid-1980s - Yamaha, Alvarez, Takamine, and other recognizable names especially. Look for guitars that look like they've been played a lot - not getting played is very bad for acoustic guitars, and closet classics generally don't have good tone. Check the tuners and make sure the guitar tunes well and has good action. Tuners can be replaced cheaply, but neck resets are VERY expensive. If the guitar is well-played, check the fretwork as well and see if it needs crowning or a full fret job. Bad frets can eat into playability and eventually tone.

 

A few months ago, I picked up a 1982 Alvarez (not a Yairi, but definitely Yairi factory and staff construction) for $200. It had replacement Grover tuners already and sounds better than 90% of the "vintage" American guitars. Great action, records really well. I also play an early-80s Yamaha that has graced numerous recordings, often being chosen over much more expensive guitars. Guitars that record well, or play well onstage, are a somewhat different beast than guitars that sound good unamplified.

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Nice job. I want to get my hands on an old Epi someday. I've got an AJ I bought a few years ago and it does pretty well, but I've longed for something older. I too have a thing for the Epi's...something about the headstock. I used to have one of these in high school, but have since become an acoustic guy.

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Have seen truss rods go through necks....look at them like the extra gas your car has when it says its on Empty. It will get you home if your close enough already. Working a truss rod is just giving you your correct relief.... Everything lies in working the saddle height to the neck angle while adjusting acordingly and still maintaining proper intonation,or working intonation on saddle if needed...assuming that your nut is cut correct and filed at the right angle also. Which even goes as far as saying a lose screw on a tuner or bad tuning machines can cause improper intonation.In checking my relief or a certain players prefered relief with a lose truss rod or straight neck,ill then usualy give slight relief from 5th fret to about 12thish...all depending if frets are all even and no rocking or wear is aparent. I use to love low action...after finding out how flawed an instrument the guitar is and all the factors that go into a setup i changed my veiw and you actualy get better tone or response with a longer string length....think about it... which note last longer? a note played on a mandolin or a note played on an upright bass? But dont go making it hard on yourself...find a luthier...the lifetime luthier and stick with him. Ive never not had a repeating client..not cause im a nice guy,but i give a promise and ill answer any question and explain how it works right infront of these people..sometimes a whole family. One great Luthier inspired me with this same code and it feels good when you build that relationship!

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