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So I have a cheapo Takamine acoustic (I think it was around $300).

 

It's been a great little guitar until a few weeks ago the strings started buzzing horribly. It seems like it's getting worse and worse. It started at the 12th fret, and now it's worked it's way all the way up to the 9th.. They are buzzing so bad that I can't even play notes in that area of the guitar..

 

The first thing I thought "the neck must be warping or bowing".. I checked the neck, and from what I can tell from my untrained eye, it's not bowed/warped at all....

 

Anyone have any ideas of what it could be?

 

I assume I will need to take it to a professional, but I'd like to get an idea of how serious the issue is before I drop a bunch of $ repairing a cheap guitar.

 

Thanks in advance!

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sounds like you need a regular setup and you might need the frets dressed. Your bridge isn't pulling off the body or anything like that is it?

 

No, the bridge seems ok.. It seems like it's the right height and everything.

 

I just thought it was strange because it has been fine for two years, and this just started happening. I'll take it to my local music store. Thanks for your help.

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So I have a cheapo Takamine acoustic (I think it was around $300).

 

It's been a great little guitar until a few weeks ago the strings started buzzing horribly. It seems like it's getting worse and worse. It started at the 12th fret, and now it's worked it's way all the way up to the 9th.. They are buzzing so bad that I can't even play notes in that area of the guitar..

 

The first thing I thought "the neck must be warping or bowing".. I checked the neck, and from what I can tell from my untrained eye, it's not bowed/warped at all....

 

Anyone have any ideas of what it could be?

 

I assume I will need to take it to a professional, but I'd like to get an idea of how serious the issue is before I drop a bunch of $ repairing a cheap guitar.

 

Thanks in advance!

Have you moved in the past two years? Perhaps the heat kicked on and sucked the moisture out of the wood which caused enough movement in the guitar as a whole (not just the neck) to begin producing issues. Maybe a humidifier would help.

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Perhaps the heat kicked on and sucked the moisture out of the wood which caused enough movement in the guitar as a whole (not just the neck) to begin producing issues.

 

I was thinking the same thing. I'd probably take it in for a setup and see what they advise. It might just need a truss rod adjustment.

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Have you moved in the past two years? Perhaps the heat kicked on and sucked the moisture out of the wood which caused enough movement in the guitar as a whole (not just the neck) to begin producing issues. Maybe a humidifier would help.

 

Actually, yes I moved in March, but only across state to a slightly cooler climate.. It has been fine though up until about 3 weeks ago, and it's progressively getting worse.

 

I was thinking the same thing. I'd probably take it in for a setup and see what they advise. It might just need a truss rod adjustment.

 

Thanks, I'll be taking it this week.

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Actually, yes I moved in March, but only across state to a slightly cooler climate.. It has been fine though up until about 3 weeks ago, and it's progressively getting worse.

No I don't think they're asking if you changed climate, but if you're living in a different apartment / house and the humidity could be different.

 

It'd make sense that this wouldn't happen until now-ish as it gets colder out and the heater becomes a serious factor.

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one thing that isnt readily visable is bellying under the bridge...this can occur in a situation where the environment changes and is perfectly natural in the lifespan of an instrument...personally, i think you just bumped or something without knowing it and it was just enough to put it out of whack...with no obvious structural issues, id say a quick neck adjustment is the fix...and dont forget, just cause the neck looks straight doesnt mean it hasnt twisted somewhat ...the progression of the buzz makes me think the frets are fine

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one thing that isnt readily visable is bellying under the bridge...this can occur in a situation where the environment changes and is perfectly natural in the lifespan of an instrument...personally, i think you just bumped or something without knowing it and it was just enough to put it out of whack...with no obvious structural issues, id say a quick neck adjustment is the fix...and dont forget, just cause the neck looks straight doesnt mean it hasnt twisted somewhat ...the progression of the buzz makes me think the frets are fine

+1

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Breaking news:

 

First of all, I haven't had a chance to get to the music store yet, but I noticed something the other night. The body of the guitar is cracking.... There is a crack that starts at the top of the sound board, (parallel to the start of the neck) and it runs about 4 inches.. Almost down to the neck.. I know that's kind of hard to explain without you actually seeing it.. Maybe I can post a pic later, but I suspect this is what's causing the problem... Maybe the crack is causing the neck to be out of wack.. Now I KNOW this won't be a cheap fix.. Probably more than the guitar is worth..

 

I can't believe I didn't notice this before, but it is tiny crack.. You really have to look hard to see it. :cryin

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Weird, dude. I have a Takamine (guitar I learned to play on) that developed a crack on the soundboard, running from the part of the cutaway closest to the soundhole all the way to the soundhole. In my case, it slightly raised the action and is VERY EASY to see, though I suspect it started smaller. Actually that is the guitar I have in Nashville High Tuning as discussed in another thread on here somewhere, sometimes I play it as a dobro with that high action.

 

Any idea what year yours was manufactured? Mine was circa 1990 or thereabouts, I'll try to take a picture and post when I get up some motivation.

 

Strange that we'd both have Taks with the same problem. I think mine was more in the $1000-$1400 range when new, and made in Japan.

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I've had pretty bad cracks and dings repaired in guitars before and it's usually not too bad in price. It's just a matter of gluing the crack and using a small piece of wood (called a "cleat") to stabilize the crack. I had it done and it was $75.

 

I know it was mentioned, but I would really get a humidifier. I've had the best success with the "water wienie" type -- usually a green tube with a sponge inside.

 

I have a top crack on my J-45 that I had a pretty reputable luthier inspect and he said that it would "settle" back down if I kept the guitar well-humidified.

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Strange that we'd both have Taks with the same problem. I think mine was more in the $1000-$1400 range when new, and made in Japan.

 

Strange indeed, but mine is only a couple years old. I think it was made in 2006.

 

 

 

I've had pretty bad cracks and dings repaired in guitars before and it's usually not too bad in price. It's just a matter of gluing the crack and using a small piece of wood (called a "cleat") to stabilize the crack. I had it done and it was $75.

 

That makes me feel better.. Hopefully they can fix the crack and help stabilize the neck as well. That has to be what is causing the string buzz...

 

Thanks guys.

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This thread is getting me all paranoid about my guitars. I use dampitts, and live in a pre-war bldg in Manhattan with radiators that will dry the snot out of your nose in 2 mins flat. :monkey

 

Don't sweat it.

My 66 D-18 has three repaired top cracks and the seam between the two joined top sections opens wide enough below the bridge during each winter you can drop an index card into it. It's not a real issue.

 

And I keep a humidifier going in close proximity....go figure.

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This is the first acoustic guitar I have ever had to crack, and I've had many.. For I'll I know, it could have been my kids that caused the crack. I try hard to keep my guitars away from them, but somehow they always manage to get their little hands on them.. I need a locking case. :)

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Lamrod, can you post some pics of your guitar...itd make it much easier to diagnose...its hard to imagine where the crack is and id say that it sounds like an odd place to have such an issue on less you have a loose brace or neck pocket...

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Just b/c we're on this topic, I found this advice from Martin, which I totally am forced by circumstance to ignore. They are perfectly describing how I hang my guitars, which are suspended on an outside wall, about four feet above an electric heater vent (which points away from them, but still):

 

Don't set your instrument next to a source of heat or hang it on a wall where it will dry out. At all costs, avoid hanging your guitar on an outside wall during winter months. The wall will be cooler than the inside air. The result is a conflict between the temperature of the top and back, with potential damage as a result.
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Lamrod, can you post some pics of your guitar...itd make it much easier to diagnose...its hard to imagine where the crack is and id say that it sounds like an odd place to have such an issue on less you have a loose brace or neck pocket...

 

I just tried and since the guitar is black, and you can barely see the crack, so its not showing up in the picture. I've tried to demonstrate in this picture below. It's a very thin crack.. Not sure if this has anything to do with the problem, but I'm sure it's not exactly good for it..

 

crack.jpg

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i think miller's right...thats an extremely uncommon place for a top crack...leads me to believe what you have there is finish checking which does occur after time in nitrocellulose finishes (esp black) If thats in fact the case, you have no need to worry because the crack doesnt go thru to the wood, leaving the guitar structurally sound

 

It wouldnt hurt to get a tech to look inside under the cracked area with a mirror to confirm that there isnt separation on a glued area...

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I doubt that would cause any neck issues. That just looks like the surface cracked all the way to the binding and then with the binding.

 

 

i think miller's right...thats an extremely uncommon place for a top crack...leads me to believe what you have there is finish checking which does occur after time in nitrocellulose finishes (esp black) If thats in fact the case, you have no need to worry because the crack doesnt go thru to the wood, leaving the guitar structurally sound

 

It wouldnt hurt to get a tech to look inside under the cracked area with a mirror to confirm that there isnt separation on a glued area...

 

Great thanks guys. It's tough for me to get to the music store before they close during the week, but I should have a chance during my x-mas vacation and I'll take it in.

 

Thanks again!

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