In a little rowboat

although the higher gauge requires more string tension to reach pitch, going up to a .13 on the e is not a hazard for your guitar, youll get a fatter tone from it on that one string---2 problems however... first, you likely need to adjust the saddle to re-intonate for the heavier string (bad fretted notes) secondly, you have a nut slot that is too narrow for the thicker string (bad unfretted notes) id change all your strings at earliest opportunity, and changing up/down gauges almost always requires at least a set up, if not a new nut j

my pop uses silk n steels on his pre-war martin, sounds great but impossible to amplify

\is cool...i was hungover j

Yea, the one screw up factor makes you think hard before making any cut...youll get used to the band saw, just always hae to make you cut a hair too thick...one plus from using handtools is the strength you develope in you fingers...youll go up in string gauge in no time did you say the rosewood neck blank is $20? That sounds really, really low...unless just for the fretboard... mahogany maybe...with all one piece for the neck, theres no way to fit a trussrod or steel re-enforcement, meaning steel strings are out...you'd be better off putting a fretboard on it, this makes fret setting easie

yup, whatever dude

not semantics... maybe i should have been more specific...a thin strip of piezo under the saddle (UST) is what most folks refer to as a piezo pickup, to which i find they are less effective with gut or nylon...a piezo transducer is generally the small round pickup glued to the underside of the guitar top, or under the bridgeplate...while the physics of how each work are similar, the pickups work differently and sound differently, the UST picks up mostly string vibration, the standard transducer set up picks up the vibrations of the top... the UST requires cutting the saddle, routing a hole

id say a transducer under the bridgeplate, like a k&k pure western is more likely---piezos arent all that great with silk and gut strings, and there's less cutting in install

i had a friend that used a AU plug in, i caant remember the name, but it randomly chose samples out of a predeterimned pool, so that for example, you had 6 kick drum samples, it would randomly pick one per beat, to make the sequence sound realistic, because with a real drummer, every kick sounds a hair different...

Any time man...ive learned from experience, jumping right into projects, and i just plain love wood...grew up in a family of woodworkers...you are going to learn so much cool shit, im jealous I have found that once you get used to dovetailing, its hands down the best joint...just remember to cut the dove a little large, then shave it down to perfect fit into the block...mortiseing is easier but a weaker set (yes martin, its true)...remember to set the rod with a bit of tension before gluing the fret board, otherwise you risk the incorrect relief once tightening and tuning to pitch I hav

find out how many springs you have and add 2 if you have 3 or get springs with double tension---pretty much wont move

I work as a tech part time, so im always working on something...as far as personal projects, im currently big on veneering and refinishing...this is the old ibanez bass im working on...the headstock was plain black gloss, but no longer...now finished with burled wood and tung oil finish I have had musician friends for years sign the body and id carve them in...i am going to refinish the body, keeping the signatures...i have replaced the stock bass pickups with low-end sensitive humbuckers and the custom pickguard will be all wood i am also working on a restoration of a 50's era Air

The standard nut assembly for a quarter inch jack measures 6/16s of an inch internally PM me you mailing address and ill send you a nut and washer, i have hundreds j

The reason it burns thru tube is that it has by design a higher plate voltage than many amp, and it doesnt matter how hard you drive it, they will still go out more readily than in other amps...dont get me wrong, its worth it, the 6v6 is a great tube I dont play electric, per se, my rig is a Gibson Chet Atkins SST or Martin acoustic though the DRRI...you get the great clean with warmth for acoustic sounds and some searing tube bending drive after about 3-4...it makes my sound Id stay away from modded versions, but i cant see a real problem with 2 ten in that amp as long as the ohms are ma

i have a homemade 15 watt guitar amp that picks up a local black church sermon on Am radio...imagine "....lays his hands on yoooouuuuuu...the power and the gloryyyyyyy..." with reverb and distortion other toys...optico-theremin, ebow with a multitude of pedal settings, a Black and Decker mouse sander, screwdriver under the strings of a guitar (ala sonic youth), a few circuit bent toys...

The non-wood pins dont respond to humidity by nature, but the wood of the bridge does...still, to my ears, ebony pins generally sound/work best, there asre of course plenty of options...i just place brass and plastic at the bottom of the food chain

the only con is that it is hard on power tubes...i get about 6 months out of a single 6v6 playing 12 hours a week...a small, small issue for a fabulous amp

Your finish is prolly nitro already...too many solvents... consider fast drying gloss deft lacquer...$10 at lowe's...acetone,methyl ethyl ketone,propane, et al...this is sandable, buffable, although steel wood is best, its a good sealer and will hold up to finger oils and abuse...nitro and poly are difficult when trying to get a clear and flawless coat...with this, you dont have to cover the entire top... ask questions here... http://www.reranch.com/reranch/ Prefer classic 57's everyday of the week over burstbuckers, consider SD pickups as well... have fun!

I had a kp2 for a while and had a bitch of a time making it work from me as a guitarist or vocalist...you almost have to have someone else control it...my suggestion is get a 2 way 90 degree clamp, onto the mic stand and have it at guitar level at arms length...i assume youre going guitar into it?? When i used it, i controlled it with my toe...not easy!!!

Is money a huge issue? Having played on almost every currently offered fender, i am completely sold on the 65 Deluxe reverb RI...a loud 22 watts, 4 inputs, reverb, vibrato, fabulous tone, jensen speaker, and it does not go from soft to silly loud like the Hot rods do... Have said this before...i think the fender blues junior is about the best 'first tube' amp one can get into, youll get great, cutting tone while learning about tube creaminess and avoiding crank overkill

oh dont forget neil young...he's the reason i first started playing harp

i have a lot experience here...and while it depends on who yo talk to, i dont care for brass pins for a few reasons...first off, brass is dense and after alot of playing, the metal will eat away at the pin holes in your bridge, and more seriously, the bridgeplate underneath top...granted itll take a long time but why chance it...secondly, youll break more strings if you play hard...the metal on metal contact is harder on bronze acoustic strings... If your guitar is new, itll take some time for the sound to open up...ebony is my choice usually, so id recommend either some nice bone/ivory pins

rubbish...there are too many acousitc guitar snobs out there...bottom line is, if you like the sounds you get, go with it... Yes, miking the guitar is the preferred method for most, myself included...but why would you want the same sound on everything you record...why would you want the same guitar sound everyone else has...? The M1a gets some really good tones and you can get good results from contact pickups and USTs also...just like using a mic, its all about getting to that sound you like using EQ, volume and reverb...I record and perform with a varied selection of guitars and amplifica

Got here late for the discussion...but good choice on the amp! j

LR BAggs ParaDI is a pretty good one