a.miller

I did a fair amount of research to make sure it was "safe". It seems to be okay, given the transformer, etc. I certainly hear a huge difference. The sloppy, fuzzy breakup that I was hearing with the 6V6 is gone. This sounds better, warmer -- bluesier... I thought about getting a new transformer, like Mercury Magnetics or something, but this is just for bedroom use and I ain't got any extra cash

BTW, I just replaced the stock preamp and poweramp tubes. I put a JJ 12AX7 in the preamp and changed from a 6V6 to a 6L6 in the powertube. It's a vintage Sylvania. Sounds super.

Wooohooo!! I just joined the Fender Champ Club!!! Pretty cool little amp!

Yeah, I heard this too. Big mistake by Fender. Frankly, their equipment is a pale comparison to what it once was. I simply can't justify spending that much cash on one of their models. Anyone who does a little research can put together a far superior sounding instrument out of parts located over the internet.

Well if that's not a song right there....

I think the high-end Garmin units will do this, but they are a little pricey.

I hate to be one to promote gear lust....but really. Check this out.

Hey Marko, it was a pleasure meeting you and playing music with you at the SoCal Wilco Jam. Very cool documentation of your trip. I hope everything works out for you.

I doubt that would cause any neck issues. That just looks like the surface cracked all the way to the binding and then with the binding.

Muchas Gracias.

I've had pretty bad cracks and dings repaired in guitars before and it's usually not too bad in price. It's just a matter of gluing the crack and using a small piece of wood (called a "cleat") to stabilize the crack. I had it done and it was $75. I know it was mentioned, but I would really get a humidifier. I've had the best success with the "water wienie" type -- usually a green tube with a sponge inside. I have a top crack on my J-45 that I had a pretty reputable luthier inspect and he said that it would "settle" back down if I kept the guitar well-humidified.

I've had some pretty decent results with Rode NT1-A microphones. Take a look at those too. They're around $250. I've paired them with a Shure SM-57 on guitar cabs and also used them for lead vocals, acoustic guitars, etc. Pretty versatile mic.

Sooo....I made a trip to Guitar Center today to get my dad an Xmas gift and took time to play the Champ 600 while was there. HOLY SHIT. What a cool amp. I'd heard great things, but you know -- people talk a lot. This is really a neat little amp. I can imagine, with a little tweaking that this thing would just slay. I think just a new speaker (after the obvious new tubes) would make it a super little amp. Damn I want one.

+1

PM me too, please :-)

My ability to screw things up with a soldering iron is the one step that has always made me not get into amp modding. Lately, I've been really wanting a little amp that I could keep under my desk -- like the Champ or a Gibson GA-5. All these little amps seem like everyone is modding them to make them super awesome -- I fear I would make it super notworkanymore.

Wow, what lousy games for Turkey Day. Note to Detroit: get with the program.

Can't wait until Jan. 21.

soo...did you ever buy anything to record with?

+1

I don't think the "clean" sound of digital makes mistakes more noticeable. I think if a mistake is a big one, you'd hear it either way. A really cool thing about Protools is there are these things called "plug-ins". You can add a plug-in to any track or number of tracks to augment the sound somehow. There are a ton of these from amp simulators to compression and EQ...there are also "vinylizers" and other types that allow a more "tape" sound. Keep in mind that a lot of warmth you hear on recordings is from the way the sound was captured -- the preamps, mics and mic placement that were used

Nylon will work. The "standard" placement for a mic on an acoustic guitar is on the 12th fret, centered on the two middle strings (the D and G). You should try to place the microphone as close as you can to the strings without interfering with playing. However, banjos sometimes sound better when miked on the rim of the body. Depending on the kind of mic you're using (dynamic or condenser), you can try anything between 8" and 3 feet. In many cases, the standard is a only a starting point and might sound like garbage. Do what sounds good to your ear. Depending on the musical passage, you mig

I have the first one, which is still going strong, though I don't think they make it any longer. For what you want to do, I think the Mbox 2 will do exactly what you need. This is a great little piece of gear. You can mic up anything and run it through there and even go direct with electric guitars, basses, etc. The guys at Sweetwater (the place my link is to) are super helpful also. Maybe they could put some sort of package together for you to get your hands dirty with. Also, I would get these accessories if your budget allows them: 6" Pop Filter -- keeps your "P" and "B" sounds from "p

Go buy a Shure SM-57, a good mic cable and an Mbox. Protools will come for free with the Mbox. Protools will allow you to do sooo much. It's a program that a novice can use and do exactly what you want to do. Additionally, it is the software choice of professionals, so if you ever want to do "more" with your music, your options for expansion (in many ways) are endless. When I got my Mbox, there was a little booklet on "how to start now." Once everything was installed it took maybe 45 minutes before I was laying down tracks. A huge advantage for protools (over tape machines, 4 tracks, etc.) i

Word is on the tempurpedic that they are very hot to sleep on, cause they do not breathe like a normal mattress. They're also really, really damn difficult to move them anywhere once they "deflate" from shipping.